It's been a long argument I've been having with a guy I work with. I have a smaller frame, about 5'6, 140 lbs. 

I always wear wide spread collars and tie my ties in full windsors. He claims I should be using a half windsor because of my smaller frame, regardless of the collar. Also that he's been told this by several tailors in clothing stores. 

Who do you think is in the wrong here? I'm personally comfortable with the full windsor and think I look good with it. but I thought I'd ask since I'm not the most experienced suit wearer.

Tags: Body, Knot, Tie, Type

Views: 848

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

I think it depends on the collar size and spread.  The over all goal is to best frame your face.  You may want to try different styles of tie knots until you find one that does look good.  

The other thing is that if you like the knot and think it looks good then it will look great on you.  It is the bride effect.  Every bride looks great because they know the look fantastic.

More so than the collar or your frame, your tie knot should work to reinforce what you'd like to emphasize about your figure. Apart from your height and the fact that you have a "smaller frame," we don't know much about your body type, so I'll try to give you a few examples.

If you're slim and trying to highlight your svelteness-of-build, a half windsor or even a four-in-hand would go a long way in stretching your figure out and lending some height. Paired with heavily padded or naturally broad shoulders, though, you might look a little ridiculous. 

In addition, a shorter man who carries a bit of weight around the middle would not benefit at all from a smaller knot, as it would make him look a bit egg-shaped. Large, thick knots like the windsor can backfire on large waisted men as well, as they may be carrying a bit of excess in the jowls that might be exacerbated by the broad fastening. In this situation, I'd stick with a middleweight knot like the half windsor.

Personally, I have a difficult build in that I'm around 5'8" and slim, but with broad shoulders and hips only a tad less wide. As such, I have little of a natural waist to speak of, which makes me seem wide from the front and comically slim from the side. As such, I tend to prefer jackets with a good bit of waist suppression, and I use thick, full knots like the windsor to accentuate my two best features; a slim face with a sharp jawline and a traditional, broad set of shoulders.

Hope this helps.

First problem: you are wearing a wide spread collar. Why? There are really only two collars I think are worth wearing: the semi-spread and button down.

Second problem: he is pretty much right, but I'd go one step further and argue that every guy should be tying a four in hand. Full windsors are pretentious and border line anal. 

RSS

Latest Activity

MichaelRogers posted a photo
18 minutes ago
Michael D. Denny replied to Chu Kim's discussion Ruled by Women
"Who knows? I've absolutely no idea. "
41 minutes ago
Christopher replied to Regular Joe's discussion To circumcise or not to circumcise . . .
"@ David -- it's true what you said abt the modern practice of circumcision being a lot more radical of a cut than it was in biblical times. The brit milah that was commanded for the Israelites was only the removal of the overhanging tip of the…"
44 minutes ago
Christopher replied to Regular Joe's discussion To circumcise or not to circumcise . . .
"haha!!"
55 minutes ago
Will replied to Regular Joe's discussion G-Spot Officially Declared A Myth
"Didn't see it.  Would have guessed Woody Allen."
2 hours ago
Will replied to Regular Joe's discussion G-Spot Officially Declared A Myth
"If it's a myth, the question is, which myth is it?  Cupid and Psyche?  The Labors of Hercules?  Tiresias would be my guess. (Always annoyed when people use "myth" to mean "mistake."  We already have a…"
2 hours ago
Will replied to Ian Wilson's discussion So what is the point of all this? in the group Out to Build Bridges
"Now that is funny."
2 hours ago
Walter B. Pewen replied to Ian Wilson's discussion So what is the point of all this? in the group Out to Build Bridges
"I think about you as little as possible, something like Jack/Jackal."
3 hours ago

© 2014   Created by Brett McKay.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service