It's been a long argument I've been having with a guy I work with. I have a smaller frame, about 5'6, 140 lbs. 

I always wear wide spread collars and tie my ties in full windsors. He claims I should be using a half windsor because of my smaller frame, regardless of the collar. Also that he's been told this by several tailors in clothing stores. 

Who do you think is in the wrong here? I'm personally comfortable with the full windsor and think I look good with it. but I thought I'd ask since I'm not the most experienced suit wearer.

Tags: Body, Knot, Tie, Type

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I think it depends on the collar size and spread.  The over all goal is to best frame your face.  You may want to try different styles of tie knots until you find one that does look good.  

The other thing is that if you like the knot and think it looks good then it will look great on you.  It is the bride effect.  Every bride looks great because they know the look fantastic.

More so than the collar or your frame, your tie knot should work to reinforce what you'd like to emphasize about your figure. Apart from your height and the fact that you have a "smaller frame," we don't know much about your body type, so I'll try to give you a few examples.

If you're slim and trying to highlight your svelteness-of-build, a half windsor or even a four-in-hand would go a long way in stretching your figure out and lending some height. Paired with heavily padded or naturally broad shoulders, though, you might look a little ridiculous. 

In addition, a shorter man who carries a bit of weight around the middle would not benefit at all from a smaller knot, as it would make him look a bit egg-shaped. Large, thick knots like the windsor can backfire on large waisted men as well, as they may be carrying a bit of excess in the jowls that might be exacerbated by the broad fastening. In this situation, I'd stick with a middleweight knot like the half windsor.

Personally, I have a difficult build in that I'm around 5'8" and slim, but with broad shoulders and hips only a tad less wide. As such, I have little of a natural waist to speak of, which makes me seem wide from the front and comically slim from the side. As such, I tend to prefer jackets with a good bit of waist suppression, and I use thick, full knots like the windsor to accentuate my two best features; a slim face with a sharp jawline and a traditional, broad set of shoulders.

Hope this helps.

First problem: you are wearing a wide spread collar. Why? There are really only two collars I think are worth wearing: the semi-spread and button down.

Second problem: he is pretty much right, but I'd go one step further and argue that every guy should be tying a four in hand. Full windsors are pretentious and border line anal. 


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