Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Garrett Gatlin on February 26, 2013 at 11:46am

Thanks for the input. 

From what I've read at AoM and after talking to multiple clothiers as of late, the rule about the sleeves is this:

The suite jacket sleeves should extend past the wrist but not up to the thumb knuckle. Approximately 1cm (1/2 inch) of shirt sleeve should be visible past the end of the jacket sleeve when arms are at the side, but the shirt sleeve should also not extend to the thumb knuckle. 

That gives me more than two inches to play with as I have large hands. So it shouldn't be too hard to do. 

I think one of my problems is the dress shirts I wore with these outfits have sleeves that are too short. The "armpits" of the jackets pull the sleeves up on the shirts. I should be wearing 36-37 sleeve length instead of 34-35. 

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by The Dutch Dastard on February 26, 2013 at 12:16pm

Correct. You've been given good advice on the sleeve-length issue. 

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Chuck Knight on February 26, 2013 at 2:08pm

Well, since you did ask...

 

Your primary problem areas seem to be in color choice, pant length/fit, and an unawareness of your waist.

 

Color choices.  Look at the photo of you in the orange shirt and khaki shorts.  It actually looks good on you.  Ditto, the brown sweater.  You obviously look good in "earthy" tones and warmer colors.  Now, look at the pink and pastel green shirts next to your skin, and notice how they wash you out, making you look pale and sickly.  These are not good colors on you.

 

Pant length has been mentioned enough, though since you are in Texas, you do have another option.  Wear a cowboy boot instead, and you could leave the extra length (or an inch more) to give it that western flair...but either way, it needs to look intentional.  As it is, it just looks haphazard.  Between the sloppy length and the clunky casual-looking shoe you're wearing with your suits, it's drawing the eye downward towards your "worst" feature.

 

Now, as for your waist.  You seem to be choosing shirt/pant combinations which cut you in half at your waist.  Notice how much sleeker you look in the untucked shirts, especially the polo -- the reason for this is that they visually obscure, almost "move" your waist to a more harmonious place.  The length of a jacket can serve the same purpose.

 

Conversely, earlier, I mentioned the brown sweater vest...the visible waist/belt really emphasizes this "chopped in half" effect.

 

I will, also, point out that sandals (I prefer Birkenstock) are a much more "grown up" look than a flip flop.  And, I don't actually mind the Atari tee...the problem isn't that it is a tee shirt, but that it is a cold black color which is not flattering on you.  Tee shirts are a classic.  But while it's usually acceptable, black looks truly *good* on very few. 

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Garrett Gatlin on February 26, 2013 at 4:13pm

Thanks for the input.

When you say "unawareness of my waist" are you saying I'm not paying attention to it, or not wearing my pants in the correct position?  I used to catch crap as a kid for wearing my pants too high, (Steve Urkle jokes) when they were right at my hip and quite a bit below my naval. 

What you're saying is I should go for looks that create a smoother transition between my upper and lower body instead of my waste being a definite dividing line? 

If I wear a casual button up shirt with some slacks, how do I prevent this from happening when you will obviously be able to see my belt?  Wear shirts that are similar colors with my pants? That doesn't sound right. 

Thanks again. 

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Chuck Knight on February 27, 2013 at 1:42am

What you're saying is I should go for looks that create a smoother transition between my upper and lower body instead of my waste being a definite dividing line?

 

Essentially, yes.  You're fit, but appear to be bulky.  If your shoulders were larger, and your waist proportionately smaller, then this would not be so much of an issue.  With your proportions, you don't want to draw attention to your waist, because it will make you look bigger than you are.

 

Look at the outfit with the brown sweater vest.  Your sweater is so short that I can actually see your belt...and it clearly delineates a dividing line, which visually chops you in half.  It also draws your eye directly to that belt buckle, which accentuates and emphasizes your waist.

 

I like sweaters.  I like polo shirts.  I like untucked shirts, and I like jackets, because they can be used to move/adjust where your waist appears to be, creating a much sleeker line.

 

Look also at your "denim and a cotton shirt" outfit.  The one with the rolled up sleeves.  Two problems, here.  One is that the relaxed fit of the jeans adds bulk, making you look just a little bit bigger than you actually are.  The other is that the rolled up sleeves happen to hit *exactly* at your waist, which further draws attention to your waist, and gives the impression that you're a big guy.

 

Do a youtube search for AlphaMConsulting, and watch a few of his videos.  Aaron is a goofball, but he's got a lot of good tips.  I'm fat, so my favorite is the one where he makes over his dad, a heavyset man.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Garrett Gatlin on February 26, 2013 at 9:11pm

Chuck, I've been doing some reading about colors and skin tone. That's an area I haven't delved into yet. I've been able to determine that my tones are "autumn" and these colors are recommended. That seems to be in line with what you were saying. Do you agree?

Attachments:

• WarmToneColors-Autumn-Spring.jpg, 21 KB

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Chuck Knight on February 27, 2013 at 1:57am

Since you said you're just beginning to think about this end of it, do you understand what warm vs cool colors actually means?  It's not just a formula. 

 

For warm colors, think fire...red, orange, yellow, and earthy like brown.  That end of the rainbow.  Greens, though adjacent to yellow, are right on that edge.  Purples, too.  Be careful with the colors on the edges.

 

As for your color analysis, it would be helpful to see you in person.  Computer monitors are hardly the best way to judge the subtlety of color, but yeah, I tend to agree.  The only way to know for certain is to actually try those colors next to your skin (usually your face) and see how they each look.  Just hold the shirt up, next to your face, and look in the mirror...some colors will look noticeably better than others, and now you know to look for it.

 

I think that was the major problem with your linen suit.  That pea green shirt was washing you out.  The color of the linen wasn't great, but it was okay.  The shirt did you no favors.  (I'm not focusing on the fit)

 

As for what I was saying about black, subtle shading can change everything.  Black, and even more obviously gray, are rarely without color.  Consider the shadings in this graphic...they're all gray, some cooler, some warmer.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Garrett Gatlin on February 28, 2013 at 3:06pm

I understand what the graphic is getting at, but these colors are very dark in hue. I think even some of the colors that are on the "cool" side of the wheel can be considered warmer hues. Right? 

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Will on February 27, 2013 at 8:09am

I think you're "autumn" based on the brown.  However, that doesn't mean IMHO that everything on the autumn chart will look good, and nothing not on it will.  You're good in navy, and I don't think you're good in the orange.  

As I look around this wheel, I see some exceptions on each swath, both for you and for me.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Garrett Gatlin on February 28, 2013 at 3:05pm

Thanks for the chart. I'm starting to understand. 

I typically think of blue and grey as cool colors. But I'm starting to understand that there are warm greys and warm blues as well. 

A navy suit with a warmer blue dress shirt and a deep red tie should be warm enough to compliment me well. (I think...) 

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Brian W. Barrett on February 28, 2013 at 1:42pm

I think most of it is alright, no flip-flops. . . ever, I'd be missing toes.

No one has stated why as far as I've read about jacket sleeve length. Here's the deal with your arms at your sides, and if you were wearing cuff links, the jacket shouldn't completely cover them. They are an accessory to be shown off. Rest of the jacket cut. . . Ideally it should come in towards the waist slightly to accentuate or at least give the impression of a V. This is why I think Letterman should fire his wardrobe/tailor since he always seems to look pear-shaped. Look at Jay Leno, when his jacket is buttoned it has the V effect ( and he's CHUNKY). Preferably you do what is necessary to actually develop that (the Lats), but hey I'm not perfect there. Some one said V neck tee's with open collar and I disagree to a point. 1. It depends on the collar of the over-shirt, needs to be short and square oxford/classic style not the longer curved style (don't really know but I call it Italian). 2. The crew tee has to fit the neck kind of snug? I should look like it's holding on to you and has an even and symmetrical curl. Look at Affleck at the end of Pearl Harbor, khaki pants w/black button down and white crew tee(classic 40's - 50's WWII pilots uniform). It is a skin tone thing also, but you're looking at that. With khaki pants the tucked tee works for some body types, I like black (not faded) and heather gray. 

Also there is an argument on pleated vs non-pleated pants. . . you should stick with non-pleated they seem to look appropriate. Since I'm so damned skinny, pleated look better on me because of the "fill-out" effect they have.

Tucked vs. Un-tucked shirts. I say tucked (even jeans and a tee look at James Dean), you're a man not a high-schooler, time to dress like the former. As far as how to make it work, lift weights and use movements that use sets of muscles instead of concentrating on specific muscles. If you can swing it, three times a week, get tired should work fairly well.

That should give you a few counter-views but what works for some doesn't work for everyone. . . "One size fits most. . . Well I'm pretty damned few!"

Fashion is something all of us could work on but, deep down I'm a T and jeans guy.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Garrett Gatlin on February 28, 2013 at 3:03pm

Maybe I'm tired from work, but I found it difficult to follow your reply. Thanks for you're input, though. :)  

On the pants cuff, I've read two things:

1) Pleated pants should be cuffed. Flat front pants should not be cuffed. 

2) Tall men should wear cuffed pants. Men under 5'9" shouldn't wear cuffed pants as it makes you look shorter. Men over 6' should wear a little larger cuff.

I agree with what you said about the V. That's why I plan to buy slim fit suits and/or have them tailored. 

Thanks again! 

 

• ▶ Reply

• ‹ Previous
• 1
• 2
• 3
• 4
• 5
• Next ›
• Page